Top 10 Best small pond deicer buying guide 2021[Update]

A frozen pond means that the water under the ice has been completely cut off from the air above. This means that water cannot absorb any new oxygen.

And it also cannot release any poisonous gases that are caused by rotting of plants or the respiration of fish. This necessitates a quality de-icer.

What is a Pond De-icer? And Do I Actually Need One?

Pond de-icer is a device that keeps a hole open in the winter snow. It only immediately warms the area around it, and does not affect the overall temperature of the water or prevent ice from forming elsewhere in the pond.

(Many pond owners also refer to these devices as pond heaters – which is not entirely accurate. A true pond heater will heat the entire pond, which is not necessary or healthy for your average backyard pond. )

To understand the attraction of the pond de-icer, we need to talk a little bit about what our good friends do in winter. While we live under comfortable blankets in our warm homes, most pond fishes – koi, goldfish, etc. – are going into a semi-dormant state called torpor that allows them to survive the winter outside. .

In this state their metabolism slows down, they stop eating and they do not move much. However, they continue to breathe. This means that not only do they require dissolved oxygen in the water, but the carbon dioxide they release needs a way to escape from the icy pond.

This is why many pond owners turn to pond de-icers. The idea is that the de-icer keeps only one hole in the ice open to allow bad gases and good gases to enter.

This is a good idea, in theory. In fact, pond de-icers actually do a poor job of promoting gas exchange in the pond. While they will keep a hole open in the ice, they do little to break the surface tension of the water, meaning that too much carbon dioxide is trapped in the pond.

What Does a Pond De-Icer Do?

A pond de-icer is first heated and then in a circle around its immediate area to prevent ice from forming very easily.

De-icer does not mean keeping the pond ice free.

However, the holes they make in the ice allow oxygen to get in and CO2 out, keeping your fish alive.

A de-icer is separated from a heater, this does not mean that all the water in the pond is to be kept above freezing. This just keeps the water around the unit from icing over.

Pond de-icers are not already meant to be melted by the ice covering the pond. They are meant to start in the water and keep a hole clean.

If your pond already has a thick layer of ice, boil a pot of water and slowly (and carefully!) Pour it over the ice until you get a hole big enough to keep the de-icer. Do not clean so that it touches the water.

Do not place the de-icer on an already frozen pond and expect it to melt.

How do you size a pond heater?

The biggest factor in choosing a pond de-icer is the wattage vs. the size of your pond.

Larger ponds require more wattage de-icers. In a large pond, it is difficult to pass large amounts of cold water, so you need a more powerful de-icer.

Keeping a hole open on the surface of your pond during winter is essential for protecting your fish. A de-icer holds an open hole in the ice to allow toxic gases to exit. If you want to find the right size de-icer to overwinter your pond, it is not as difficult as you think, but each de-icer is of a different size, so be sure to double check the manufacturer’s recommendations. If you have excessive plant material or large amounts of fish in the pond, it may be necessary to have several holes in the ice as gases will build up faster.

Watts Per Gallon for Pond De-Icers

  • Up to 150 gallons (567 liters): 100 watts
  • Up to 250 gallons (946 liters): 250 watts
  • Up to 500 gallons (1,892 liters): 300 watts
  • Up to 1,000 gallons (3,785 liters): 750 watts
  • Up to 1,500 gallons (5,680 liters): 1,250 watts
  • Up to 2,000 gallons (7,570 liters): 1,500 watts

Keep in mind that all these wattage estimates of the size of the pond assume that you live in one of the coldest agricultural areas. If you live in a hot area then you can get away with low wattage.

De-Icer Placement

De-icers work best when placed in shallow sections, near the edge of the pond. This de -icers will heat itself and reflect from its edges and make the dicer more efficient. Keeping your D-icer near the edge also means that if problems arise, you will not be walking on thin ice to get your D-icer.

If you are in northern areas or places that are known to freeze hard, it is a good idea to stop as much air as possible from the de-icer. The air will take the heat away from the de-icer so that it will have to stay longer to avoid freezing. These de-icers have to cover a corner of the pond with a piece of plywood and keep the de-icer under the air. Will hold and hold in some heat. You can also try placing a bucket with the cut out on top of the de-icer after it becomes ice. If you have a full ice cover, simply fill a pan with boiling water and keep it on ice until a hole melts. You never want to cut or see ice because shock waves can strain or even kill your fish.

De-icers involve some maintenance in order to run them efficiently. Mineral formation on the heating element can cause premature failure of the de-icer. Inspect the heating element frequently and clean it with water and, if necessary, a limescale remover. Never drive the de-icer on the extension cord as it can cause voltage loss and premature failure.

Extra protection
Using an aeration kit, like Pondair, in combination with a de-icer will not only help keep a hole on the surface, but also add oxygen and circulate water to help flush out the toxic gas. Keeping a constant supply of dissolved oxygen will keep your fish happy and healthy throughout the winter. To help you save energy costs, consider using a thermo cube thermostatically controlled outlet. It is controlled by the temperature of the air, which means that you will use your de-icer only when it is really necessary.

Pond Heaters vs De-icers
You will not need a pond heater to heat the water unless you have hot water fish, such as Plecostomus, in your water garden. Most pond fish, including any other goldfish, will overwinter in your pond as long as the depth is at least 18 “. Another goldfish goes into a yearning or hibernation: their metabolism slows down, they stop eating. And they are able to tolerate cold water. — Even water that is cold enough to freeze.

What is a heat pump?

A device that converts electrical energy from kinetic to thermal energy through the use of compressed refrigerants. It works like a fridge upside down.

This de-heater draws heat from the air and transfers that heat to the pond water very easily. The heat pump does not produce heat like a resistance heater, it removes heat from one place and transfers it where needed.

Heat pumps operate on the principle of closed circuits used in domestic refrigerators.
One side is cold and the other is hot. For example, a refrigerator removes heat from inside itself as well as from food and transfers it to the outside air through a condenser, which is then heated.

Heat pumps use the sun’s free heat by collecting and absorbing energy from the outside air. This energy is then transferred to Koi pond water.

Your existing Koi pond circulates water through a pump heater that heats the pond. The unit has a fan that draws out the external air and directs it to the surface of the evaporator (energy collector).

The liquid refrigerant within the EVAPORATOR coil absorbs heat from the outside air and becomes a refrigerant gas.
The hot gas passes through the compressor where it is compressed to form a very hot gas, which then passes through the condenser (water heat exchanger).

It is here that heat is exchanged as the hot gas releases heat to the cooler Koi pond water circulating through the coil.
The pond water heats up and the hot gas cools down as it flows through the condenser coil, returns to its liquid form, and resumes the entire process after passing through the expansion valve.

Depending on the design of the installation and the ambient temperature, using the latest heat inverter heat pump technology it is possible to obtain 14 times as much heat per kWh power consumption.
So for every 1kw of electricity consumed, up to 14kw of heat can be generated to heat the water.

Inverter heat pumps are the latest type of heat pump available and are even more efficient – 20{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136} more efficient than a standard A / C heat pump. The reason for this is that the DC (direct current) technique is about 96{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136} Efficient compared to the A / C technique (alternating main current).

Which is only 46{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136} efficient. In addition, with DC technology the compressor speed within the heat pump can change as the heating demand changes so that when an inverter unit is first switched on, it will run at full power.

As soon as the water temperature reaches the setpoint, It will slow down and run at a lower power rating And within the prescribed temperature range the heat pump will be running at a low power level, hence there will be less power consumption.

With the A / C model, the unit is either on or off, and when on and on The unit will run at full power. The inverters are therefore capable of varying the load to suit the need for heating and therefore will also cost less to run than their A / C counterparts.

Inverter models are more expensive to buy, so no pond heating has generally been used, although now inverters are more competitively priced, and are actually cheaper to buy than some older technology A / C models.

All our heat pumps are now offered with three-year parts and labor warranty, supported by nationwide distribution and therefore there has never been a better time to invest in these super-efficient units.

All types of heat pumps are at least 3 times more efficient than other heating methods, including gas, oil, and direct electric.

Savings in terms of running costs can be as low as 70{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136} compared to direct electric heating, and up to 40{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136} compared to oil or gas.

If you decide to heat your pond, an air source heat pump is undoubtedly the most cost-effective way to do this, being economical to buy and install compared to gas or oil installations as well as running. Being cheaper, and is way cheaper to run than direct electrical systems.


Heating your Pond – is it necessary? – What’s the best method?

Obviously – no – you don’t need to heat a pond. Some are polykylothermic, meaning that their body temperature is controlled by the temperature of the surrounding water.
They are hardy ‘cold water’ fish that can withstand a wide range of water temperatures and grow. No one is known to avoid a temperature of 1 ° C.
(33 ° F) to 32 ° C (90 ° F) without any effect. It is not the extremes of temperature that bother Koi,
Rather any temperature extremes and periods of rapid temperature fluctuations that can cause problems for any keeper.

In the UK, problems are not usually associated with extreme cold water temperatures during the winter, but rather our rather monotonous length,
‘Cold’ and pathetic winters and low water temperatures that cause problems. Koi’s immune system functions properly at temperatures above about 12.5 ° C.
(55 ° F). Under this, and the immune system stops working effectively and at low temperatures, one’s ability to fight against diseases can be severely reduced.
Unfortunately, many pathogenic bacteria and many types of parasites can survive and even thrive at temperatures up to about 5 ° C.
This means that one of your is weakest at temperatures between 6 ° C and 12.5 ° C.

Since water temperatures in the UK can be in this range for up to 5 months of the year, you will appreciate why this is the case with most disease problems.
What we are facing as a keeper (usually in the spring) may stem from this length of relatively cold water temperature.

In addition, small ponds of 2000 gallons or less will be more affected by the effect of volatile water chemistry because the volume of the pond is comparatively smaller and
Ponds can also exhibit problems similar to large quantities but of a shallow nature. Any water parameter that changes very fast, one will insist on.
One of these water parameters is clearly the temperature of the water, and ideally, it should not fluctuate more than 0.5 ° C per day.

In winter, and indeed in spring, we may get very cold and frosty nights, but then there can be sunny days, which can result in temperature fluctuations.
Up to 2 ° C or so in small, unheated, shallow and open ponds. The degree of temperature change obviously varies across the UK, but one of
The most important benefit of heating the Koi pond is the ability to achieve a constant water temperature at all times.

Therefore any heating installation is not intended to heat the pond at high temperatures, for example, high growth,
Or just to keep some of us active. It should be targeted to control the temperature of the water to avoid the temperature ‘trap’ or fluctuations described above.

In your own installations you de-icers, we heat our stock (and private) ponds until Christmas time, leaving the pond thermostats set at 16 ° C (61 ° F).
This expands the heat of the koi and feeds them well and keeps them growing. Around the turn of the new year we reduce the temperature progressively
Until the water temperature returns to ambient levels (so that the water temperature matches the surrounding average air temperature).
Then we give all our Koi around 1/2 of January and a short winter for the whole of February and then turn the heating back on in early March.

During these cold months we allow the temperature of the water to drop to as low as 4 or 5 degrees Celsius, normally.
It does no harm to healthy koi for this short period, but helps to ‘clean’ the pond’s environment and reduce the number of any remaining parasites or bacteria.

This means that we are effectively giving someone 10 months of heat and a maximum of two months of winter.
We are also using our heating system only for about 4-5 months of the year, and are not heating at all for the two coldest months, January or February.
And since we are not trying to raise the temperature of our pond to ridiculously high levels, we are also reducing the excess fuel bill as much as possible.

It is an established and accepted fact that one survives longer if given a ‘natural’ winter, and we do not subscribe to the idea that a pond must be
It should be heated throughout the year to ensure their well-being. In fact, we will go further, in those ponds which are warm all year round, they should be maintained
More carefully to avoid problems as one never gets a ‘rest’ or period of inactivity and a summer maintenance regime is absolutely important to ensure
So that there is no problem. Weekly water changes and filter maintenance must be followed, while the water temperature rises only because
When you are providing a warm comfortable environment for your koi, you are also providing the same conditions for parasites and bacteria that can and
Often multiply very rapidly in ponds kept ‘warm’ during the winter, while a cautious keeper is taken in front of a log fire in sufficient quantities.
Forget about the supply of minced pie and brandy, daily or weekly pond maintenance tasks!

If you decide to heat your pond, you will have several options, including gas, oil, heating using electricity and no electricity in form.
Of air source heat pumps. While gas installations are more expensive to install, they are comparatively cheaper to run.
Oil is now becoming very expensive, and capital outlay for oil installation is also generally more expensive than gas installation.
Direct electric heating systems are easy to install and relatively cheap, but are the most expensive to run –
Now however, with the introduction of air-source heat pumps, you have the ability to increase the efficiency of installation of your heating system by 400{55ee112a9cfa0f6dde5295c8dc1da3137f72c1284deea37d48efbb0342433136}
Since air source heat pumps can deliver up to 14 times the energy consumed and are now the cheapest way to heat your pond (see below).
However – the choice is yours!
To give you an idea of ​​the cost, running a gas system can cost as little as 70p per thousand gallons per day, while oil is currently around £ 1.00 per thousand gallons per day, and direct electric heating costs around £ 1.30p per day. Starts with a thousand. Gallons per day.
The price of a DC inverter air source heat pump can be as low as 50p per thousand gallons per day.

Insulating a hot pond is important to keep costs under control and even a simple cover made of a heat-resistant material such as bubble wrap or (ideally).
Polycarbonate will significantly reduce costs. As an example, we have halved the cost of heating our 25,000-gallon stock ponds by tripling all of the heated ponds.
Wall polycarbonate sheet. The cost of insulation will pay for itself in the first season.





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